The History of the Mustang

We came across this neat read this morning, and thought you guys might enjoy it.

Viva la Mustang!

 

(via www.classicponycars.com)

In 1961, Lee Iacocca, vice president and general manager of Ford Division, had a vision. His vision was a car that would seat four people, have bucket seats, a floor mounted shifter, be no more than 180 inches long, weigh less than 2500 pounds, and sell for less than $2500.00. Out of this vision, the Ford Mustang was born. After many months of meetings, discussions and market surveys, funding was finally approved for the Mustang in September of 1962. On March 9, 1964 the first Mustang rolled off of the assembly line. Only 18 months had elapsed since the Mustang had been approved for production. In order to keep production costs down, many of the Mustang’s components were borrowed from the Falcon, including most of the drivetrain. With a multitude of different interior, exterior, and drivetrain options, the Mustang would be able to be ordered as plain, or as fancy, as economical, or as fast, as the buyer wanted. In general, the Mustang was designed for everyone and was advertised as “the car to be designed by you”.

The Ford Mustang was heavily advertised during the latter part of it’s development. On April 16, 1964, the day before it’s release, Ford ran simultaneous commercials at 9:30pm on all three major television networks, ABC, NBC, and CBS. The following day, April 17, 1964, people “attacked” the Ford showrooms. Everyone was in a frenzy to be one of the first to own the Mustang. Ford sold over 22,000 Mustangs the first day. By the end of the year, Ford had sold 263,434. By the end of the Mustang’s first anniversary, April 17, 1965, Ford had sold 418,812 Mustangs. The Mustang had made a name for itself, and it was here to stay!!!

The First Production Mustang

To Roll Off The Assembly Line

The 1964½, as it was later called, was available in only two models: the coupe and convertible. Both models featured a lengthened hood and shortened rear deck, chrome wrap-around bumpers, chrome grille with a running horse, and full wheel covers. Both models were available with a 170 cid, 101 horsepower, 6 cylinder engine, a 260-2V, 164 horsepower V-8, a 289-4V, 210 horsepower V-8 and, starting in June, a fire breathing, 4 barrel, solid lifter, 271 horsepower, 289 cid V-8 engine. The buyer had a choice of a 3 speed, 4 speed or automatic transmission, and a variety of rear end gear ratios. The interior featured “wall-to-wall” carpeting, front bucket seats or an optional front bench seat, rear bench seat, a sports car style steering wheel, floor mounted shifter, and full headliner. There were a total of 121,538 Ford Mustangs produced during the 1964½ model run.

1965 Mustang Convertible

1965 Mustang 2+2 Fastback

1965 brought few changes for the Mustang. The biggest change was the availability of a new fastback model, which was to become the basis for Carroll Shelby’s GT350. The 120 horsepower, 200 cid 6 cylinder engine replaced the 170 cid 6 cylinder, the 289-2V, 200 horsepower V-8 replaced the 260-2V, the 289-4V was upgraded to 225 horsepower, and the 289-4V hi-po remained unchanged. Other changes for the 1965 Mustang included: an alternator instead of a generator, relocation of the oil filler, integral power steering pump and resevoir (most 1964½’s had a remote mounted resevoir), a wire retaining ring was added to the gas cap, the horns were smaller and relocated, and the interior carpet was continued up the sides of the rocker panel and under the sill plate. A new interior option was added, the interior decor group (known as the pony interior), which featured special seat covers with running horses across the seat back, special interior door panes with integral arm rests and pistol grip door handles, five gauge instrument panel, woodgrain steering wheel, and woodgrain appliques on the instrument cluster, glovebox, and optionally on the center console. Another Mustang option introduced in April of 1965 was the GT equipment group. Available only with one of the two four barrel engines, the GT group included five-dial instrumentation, disc brakes, larger sway bars, quicker steering ratio, dual exhaust which exited through the rear valance panel, grill mounted foglights, and special lower body side stripes. A total of 559,451 Mustangs were produced for the 1965 model year.

1966 Mustang GT Coupe

1966 Mustang GT Convertible

1966 Mustang GT Fastback

1966 brought even fewer changes for the Mustang than did its predecessor. Most of the changes for 1966 were in the form of cosmetic refinements. A new grille which featured chrome edged, horizontal inserts, replaced the honeycomb grille of ’65. The chrome bars that extended horizontally and vertically from the running horse were deleted on the 1966 Mustang’s grille. A new three fingered rear quarter panel ornament was used. The lower rocker panel moulding became standard equipment, as did backup lights, and a chrome hood lip moulding. The fuel filler cap no longer included the plastic Mustang emblem insert found on the earlier models. On the inside, the Mustang was treated to standard five gauge instrumentation, and “woven” vinyl seat inserts. The choices of available interior colors and styles increased to thirty four varieties, giving the buyer even more ways to personalize “their” Mustang. Production increased to 607,568 units for 1966.

1967 Mustang Convertible

1967 Ford Mustang Coupe

1967 brought the first major restyling to the Ford Mustang. The Mustang was starting to grow up. The length and heigth were increased, 2.7″ and .5″ respectively. The wider body allowed for the installation of a tire smoking, 320 horsepower, 390 cid engine, the first big block engine in the Mustang. Among new options for the 1967 Mustang were the tilt-away steering wheel, an overhead console, power disc brakes, and an all new transmission, the FMX, which allowed fully automatic or manual shifting. The Mustang fastback’s roof line was extended to the rear of the trunk. Interior trim options were decreased from 34 in 1966 to just 20 in 1967. Production for 1967 slipped to just over 472,000 units.

1968 Mustang GT Fastback

1968 Mustang California Special

1968 High Country Special

The 1968 Mustang was little changed from it 1967 counterpart. Most of the changes were in subtle refinements to the interior and exterior. New options for the 1968 Mustang included an AM/FM stereo radio, rear window defogger (coupe and fastback only), re-designed front power disc brakes, and the all new 302 cid engine. The 302-4V, 230 horsepower engine replaced the 289 Challenger Special of previous years. By December of 1967, the 289 engine was replaced entirely by the 302 version. Other changes included the deletion of the horizontal grille bars, the deletion of the F-O-R-D letters at the front of the hood, simplification of the quarter panel ornament, and many safety features were added. Due to increasing governmental regulations, the 1968 Mustang now included front and rear side marker lights, folding, flush mounted interior door pulls, and an energy absorbing steering column. There were several “region specific” models offered from various dealers. Two of the most noteable were the Mustang California Special, and the Mustang High Country Special. Total production for 1968 was 317,404 units.

1969 Mustang SportsRoof

1969 brought another major restyling to the Mustang. The Fastback 2+2 was gone – replaced by the new SportsRoof model. The new Mustangs were almost 4 inches longer than their 67/68 predecessors, yet they retained the 108″ wheelbase of the original 1964½. The base Mustang engine continued to be the 200 cubic inch six cylinder. New for the economy minded Mustang owner was an optional 250 cubic inch six. The base V-8 continued to be the 302-2V. The 351-2V and 4V entered the lineup for 1969. The 302-4V and the 390-2V were dropped, but the 390-4V remained. There were two special engines offered for 69, the Boss 302 and the Boss 429. Both engines were only available in two limited production units, so called, the Mustang Boss 302 and the Mustang Boss 429. New features for 1969 included quad headlights, front parking lights were now located behind the front valance panel, new quarter panel ornaments, side scoops and integral rear spoiler on the SportsRoof models, front seat back locks, and for the first time, the VIN number, in addition to being located on the driver’s door, was also attached to the instrument panel, and visible through the windshield.

There were several new Mustang models offered during 1969. A little know model was the Mustang ‘E’. It was basically a standard economy minded Mustang SportsRoof model with a six cylinder engine, a higher (lower numerically) ratio rear end with a large torque converter, and an automatic transmission. Air conditioning was not available on the ‘E’ model. A “Mustang E” insignia replaced the standard quarter panel ornament. Another new model was the Mustang Grande, which included the Interior Decor Group, an electric clock, special houndstooth check upholstery, and extra sound deadner.

Another new model was the Mustang Mach 1 which was only available with one of the five larger V-8 engines. It featured special interior trim, special carpet, and high back bucket seats. On the exterior, the Mach 1 featured a low-gloss black hood, non-functional hood scoop (except models equipped with the 428 Cobra Jet engine which had a “new for 69″ shaker scoop), hood pins, dual racing mirrors,special side stripe, pop-open gas cap, and dual exhaust ending in chrome, quad outlets. The Mustang Mach 1 also included the “Handling Suspension” and an additional 55 pounds of sound deadner and insulation materials.

Another new model for ’69 was the Mustang Boss 302. Built mainly to qualify the Mustang for the SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) Trans-Am series. The Boss 302 included a special 290 horsepower, 302 engine, 4 speed transmission, 16:1 ratio steering box, and a 3.50:1, staggered shock rear end. The exterior featured a low-gloss, black hood and deck lid, Boss 302 “C” stripes, front spoiler, flared fenders and Magnum 500 wheels with F60x15 tires. All of the optional Mustang interiors were available on the Boss 302, however, most of them were equipped with the black, standard Mustang interior.

The biggest and baddest of the Boss’s, the Mustang Boss 429, was also introduced in 1969. Primarily built to satisfy NASCAR requirements, the Boss 429 Mustang featured a Semi-Hemi 429 powerplant. To compensate for the massive engine, the front shock towers were moved out one inch, and the front A-Arms were lowered one inch. The Boss 429 featured a huge hood scoop (the largest ever offered on the Mustang), front spoiler, flared fenders, dual racing mirrors, and F60x15 tires, mounted on chrome, Magnum 500 wheels. The interior featured the Mustang interior decor group, comfortweave bucket seats, and console. The Boss 429 also featured a competition suspension, rear stabalizer bar, power front disc brakes, power steering, engine oil cooler, trunk mounted battery, and a 3.91:1, traction lock rear end.

There were a total of 299,824 Mustang’s built in 1969.

1970 Mustang Coupe

1970 Mustang Grande

1970 saw no major changes to the Mustang lineup. Most of the changes were in the way of subtle refinements. The headlights became dual units again instead of the quad units used in 1969, front side marker lamps were moved up onto the fenders, the quarter panel “scoops” were deleted, and the rear taillights were now recessed into their housings. On the inside, high back buckets became standard equipment with the seat back release moved to the lower part of the seat, a new “oval” steering wheel (supposedly to ease entry and exit), and the ignition switch was moved to the steering column which locked the steering wheel when turned to the off position. The engine lineup changed slightly for the 1970 Mustangs. The 390 was dropped and the 351-2V Cleveland and 351-4V Cleveland replaced the 351 Windsor models of previous years. The Mach 1, Boss 302, and Boss 429 were all available in 1970. Total Production for 1970 was 190,727 units.

1971 Mustang Coupe

1971 Mustang Grande

1971 Mustang Mach 1

1971 saw another major restyling change for the Ford Mustang. It was also to be the last restyling for the first generation Mustang. Introduced late in August of 1970, the new Mustang was more than two inches longer and almost two and a half inches wider than it’s 1970 predecessor. For the first time since the Mustang’s inception, the wheelbase was extended one inch to 109″. The 200 cid 6 cylinder was dropped along with the 428, the Boss 302, and the Boss 429. New engines for ’71 were the Boss 351, the 429, and the Ram Air 429. The Mustang Boss 351 produced 330 horsepower, while both 429 engines produced 370 horsepower.

On the exterior, the famous Mustang corral returned. A new wide chrome strip on the edge of the front fenders and hood was borrowed from the 1969 Shelby’s. The long hood now turned up at the windshield to cover the hidden wipers. Large, bold, triple lens tail lights appeared on the rear of the new Mustang. Flush mounted door handles replaced the earlier surface mounted units.

The interior featured standard high-back buckets, a mini console, and an all new instrumentation layout. Power windows were offered for the first time. The Mustang Mach 1 continued to be offered for ’71. It was available with any of the V8 engines. A special honeycomb grille and color keyed front bumper were unique to the Mach 1 model. The chrome hood and fender mouldings were replaced with color keyed trim. “Mach 1″ decals were placed on the fenders and deck lid and a special black or argent lower body side paint was used.

New for 1971 was the Mustang Boss 351 which replaced the Boss 302 and Boss 429. The Boss 351 featured a special 330 horsepower 351-4V Cleveland engine. The Boss 351 featured a blacked out NASA scooped hood with twist type locks and special body side stripes. The Boss 351 included a competition suspension with staggered rear shocks, a four speed transmission with a Hurst shifter, power front disc brakes, dual exhaust, and 3.91:1 traction lock rear end.

There were a total of 149,678 Mustangs built in 1971.

1972 Mustang Coupe

1972 Mustang Convertible

1972 Mustang Mach 1

Since the Mustang had undergone a major restyling in 1971, the 1972 Mustang models saw no big styling changes, only minor cosmetic ones. Probably due to increasing governmental fuel economy regulations, all of the Boss cars were dropped from the 1972 lineup. The Boss 351 and both versions of the 429 engine were dropped. During the early part of ’72, a special 351HO model was offered. It featured a low compression version of the Boss 351 engine, with a special high-lift cam, mechanical lifters, forged aluminum pistons and a special 4-barrel manifold. The only “performance” model that remained for the entire ’72 model year was the Mustang Mach 1. The Mach 1, like all other ’72 models, were virtually unchanged.

Production for 1972 topped out at 125,093.

1973 Mustang Coupe

1973 Mustang Convertible

1973 brought the last year of the “big” Mustang. It was to be replaced by a smaller, lighter breed, therefore, most of the changes for ’73 were merely cosmetic. A large, square, chrome headlamp bezel appeared, as did chrome trim around the tail lights. A color keyed Urethane front bumper replaced the chrome units of the previous years. The front parking lights were now placed vertically in the front grille. A new, grained, black applique with bright trim was placed on the rear body panel between the tail lights. This was replaced with a honeycomb style on the Mustang Mach 1 and Mustang Grande models. The 1973 Mustang convertible was to become the last Mustang convertible for many years. There were a total of 134,867 Mustangs produced in 1973.

The Mustang is, of course, one of Ford’s classic and most well-known vehicles. Chances are if you’re here, you’re an enthusiast for that type of thing; if what you saw here really piqued your interest, why not do a little browsing and see if you can find one to make your own? There are classic cars for sale all over the web, and there might be one with your name on it.

Infographic

Should Ford Retaliate Over GM’s Post-Apocalyptic Super Bowl Ad?

(via Michael Wayland – mlive - http://www.mlive.com/auto/index.ssf/2012/02/should_ford_retaliate_over_gms.html)

In wake of General Motors Co.proclaiming itself the post-apocalyptic king of pickups, a very obvious question arises: Should Ford Motor Co. retaliate?

In its 2012 Super Bowl ad for the Chevrolet Silverado, GM did some mudslinging at Ford, alluding if you’re driving a Ford during the apocalypse you will die (or not make it to your destination for Twinkies).

GM has been anything but apologetic when it comes to the commercial, as well as its feelings of being better than its competitors – particularly crosstown rivals Ford and Chrysler Group LLC.

“We can wait until the world ends, and if we need to, we will apologize,” said GM Global Chief Marketing Officer Joel Ewanick in response to Ford asking the company to remove the ad before the Super Bowl. “In the meantime, people who are really worried about the Mayan calendar coming true should buy a Silverado right away.”

The “good-humored ad,” which has received nearly 6.5 million hits on YouTube, shows the Silverado navigating a completely over-the-top, outrageous version of the devastation and destruction predicted to occur this year by the Mayan calendar. It includes giant attack robots, meteors and frogs falling from the sky.

A group of men, who are Silverado owners, make their way to a designated meeting spot but notice one of their buddies is missing. The missing friend, however, did not drive a Chevrolet. Instead, he drove a Ford and doesn’t appear to have made it to the meeting point alive.

“We actually think it’s a pretty darn positive ad,” Ewanick said earlier this week during an “Ask Me Anything” web chat on Jalopnik.com. “You have to break through, you have to be funny — and remember there’s two truck brands — there’s Chevy and there’s Ford. We want people to know that like Pepsi or Coke they have two choices.”

In this case, GM is Pepsi. Ford is Coke. Pepsi has a history of taking shots at Coca-Cola, without much retaliation from the soft drink giant.

So, should Ford retaliate? It didn’t retaliate against Chrysler for the Dodge Durango showing “the Ford Explorer a thing or two about what it means to have best-in-class towing.”

In 2011 the Ford F-150 was the best-selling pickup and vehicle in America with 584,917 sold, compared to 415,130 Chevrolet Silverados and 244,763 Ram full-size pickups.

——

We all know Ford is the better truck. Do we need to stoop to their level? Tell us what you think!

Lemon. Lemon. Lemon?

In today’s installment of the Bill Talley Ford blog you’ve all come to love and admire, we discuss lemons. You’re probably wondering to yourself why we are talking about lemons, or maybe even thinking to yourself how you love ‘em or hate ‘em. However, we assure you that when we say lemon we don’t mean the small, round, yellow fruit that leaves a sour taste in your mouth. That’s right, folks. We’re talking cars.

 

But even the lemon we are talking about can leave a bitter taste in your mouth and a pretty sour headache. Below we have listed a few helpful tips you should take into account when you are in the hunt for a car, and what to do if faced with the unfortunate situation of buying a lemon.

 

(via Consumer Reports)

How to spot a lemon

Finding a trouble-free used car has nothing to do with luck and everything to do with applying good research and investigative skills. Knowing how to spot potential problems and determining how reliable a used vehicle is can save you from expensive automotive headaches down the road. The following advice can help you determine whether a used vehicle is a good value or potential trouble.

1. Check the reliability record.

A good way to reduce the risk of purchasing a trouble-prone vehicle is to select models with a good reliability record before you begin shopping. Consumer Reports’ annual subscriber survey provides exclusive real-world reliability information that can help you narrow your selections. See Best and worst used cars for a quick-reference list of the best and worst used cars from our most recent survey. Also read the reliability-history charts that accompany most of CR’s vehicle profiles to get a more detailed view at how specific models have held up in 17 trouble areas as well as overall.

2. Read the window sticker.

The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to post a Buyer’s Guide in every used vehicle offered for sale. Usually attached to a window, it must contain certain information, including whether the vehicle is being sold “as is” or with a warranty, and what percentage of repair costs (if any) the dealer is obligated to pay. The Guide information overrides any contrary provisions in your sales contract. In other words, if the Guide says that the vehicle is covered by a warranty, the dealer must honor that warranty. If any changes in coverage are negotiated, the Guide must be altered to reflect them before the sale.

If a sale is designated “as is,” it means that the dealer makes no guarantees as to the condition of the vehicle, so any problems that arise after you have made the purchase will be your responsibility. Many states do not allow as-is sales on vehicles selling for more than a certain price.

3. Check the exterior.

Begin by doing a walk around of the car, looking for dents, chipped paint, mismatched body panels or parts, broken lamp housings, and chipped windows. Gaps between body panels should be of a consistent width and line up.

A closer inspection can reveal paint overspray on chrome or rubber trim or in the vehicle’s wheel wells. This is a telltale sign of body-panel repair.

Test for the presence of body filler with a small magnet. If the magnet doesn’t stick to the panel, the car may have filler under the paint (some vehicles with plastic or fiberglass panels, however, won’t attract a magnet at all). A door, hood, or trunk that doesn’t close and seal properly is evidence of previous damage and/or sloppy repair work. A CAPA (Certified Automotive Parts Association) sticker on a body panel means the part has been replaced. Inconsistent welds around the hood, doors, or trunk also indicate repair.

4. Check the interior.

A long look into the cabin can reveal many obvious problems, such as a sagging headliner, cracked dashboard, and missing knobs, handles, and buttons. Frayed seat belts or ones with melted fibers (because of friction) may be evidence of a previous frontal impact above 15 mph–damaged safety belts should always be replaced.

Prematurely worn pedals or a sagging driver’s seat are signs that the vehicle has very high mileage. An air bag warning light that stays lit may indicate that a bag has deployed and been improperly replaced–or not replaced at all. A mildew smell, caused by a water leak, can be very hard to get rid of. Discolored carpeting, silt in the trunk, or intermittent electrical problems may be signs of flood damage.

5. Check under the hood.

At first glance, the engine, radiator, and battery should be relatively grease-free and have very little or no corrosion. Belts and hoses should be pliable and unworn. Look for wet spots, which can indicate leaking oil or fluids. Melted wires, tubes, or lines, or a blackened firewall may be signs of overheating or even an engine fire.

With the engine cool, insure that all fluids are clean, filled to the proper level, and do not have leaks. Check the engine oil while the engine is cool. Remove the dipstick from its tube and clean it with a dry rag, reinsert it and remove it again. The oil level should be between the “full” and “add” marks. Normal engine oil is brown or black, depending on when it was last changed. Gritty or gelatinous oil may indicate long stretches between oil changes. Thin, frothy oil that’s the color of chocolate milk may point to a blown head gasket or to a severely damaged block or cylinder head. Fine metal particles in the oil indicate internal damage or heavy wear.

The transmission fluid dipstick is usually located in the rear of the engine compartment. Check it right after the car has been driven for more than 10 minutes. With the engine at idle and both the brake and parking brake applied, shift through all the gears. Leave the engine running and put it in neutral or park (according to the owner’s manual) and check the level in relation to the dipstick marks. Also inspect the fluid’s condition. The transmission fluid should be bright red to light reddish brown, not dark brown, black, or mustard colored; those colors can indicate serious problems. If it has a strong burned smell, that can indicate severe wear.

6. Check the tires.

Wear should be even across the width of the tread and the same on the left and right sides of the car. Tires that are frequently used while over-inflated tend to have more wear in the middle; tires driven while under-inflated tend to wear more on the sides. Heavy wear on the outside shoulder near the sidewall of the tire indicates a car that has been driven hard. This can be a sign that other parts of the car may suffer from excessive wear due to aggressive driving. Cupped tires, those that have worn unevenly along the tread’s circumference, can indicate various problems with the steering, suspension, or brakes.

7. Check the steering.

With the car idling, turn the steering wheel right and left. Check that there isn’t any slack or “play,” or clunking noise in the steering. Excess play may indicate a worn steering gear or damaged linkage.

While driving at normal speeds on smooth, flat pavement, the car shouldn’t wander or need constant steering corrections. A shaking steering wheel often indicates a need for a wheel balancing or front-end alignment, which are easily remedied. However, this may also be a clue that there’s a problem with the driveline, suspension, or frame, which could mean expensive repairs are in order.

8. Check the suspension.

Check the suspension by pushing down hard on each fender and letting go. The car should rebound softly, once or twice. More than two severe rebounds indicate worn shock absorbers or struts. Also, drive the car over a bumpy road at about 30 mph. A car that bounces and slams at moderate speeds over common pavement may have a worn or damaged suspension.

9. Check the tailpipe.

A puff of white smoke upon start-up is probably the result of condensation and not a cause for alarm. Black smoke after the car has warmed up indicates an overly rich air-fuel mixture–usually due to a dirty air filter, a faulty oxygen sensor, or mass-air meter (which measures the amount of intake air). Blue smoke indicates oil burning–a bad sign, requiring expensive repairs. Billowing white smoke indicates water in the combustion chamber, usually because of a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder head, or even a cracked block–all expensive repairs.

10. Step on the gas.

While driving, does the engine rev excessively before the car accelerates? This is a common sign of a misadjusted or worn-out clutch, or a damaged automatic transmission. A clutch adjustment is a relatively inexpensive service, but a damaged clutch or automatic-transmission repair can be extremely expensive.

Listen for knocks and pings while accelerating. These indicate bad ignition timing or an engine beginning to overheat.

11. Check for recalls and TSBs.

Check to see if any recalls were issued and if recall service was performed. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (www.nhtsa.dot.gov; 800-424-9393) lists all official recalls. Ask the seller for documentation on recall service. If any recall work has not been performed on a car that you’re considering, it should be done as soon as possible. Automakers are required to perform recall service free of charge, regardless of the vehicle’s age or how long ago the recall was issued.

Technical Service Bulletins, or “TSBs,” are reports a manufacturer sends its dealers about common or recurring problems with a specific model, and how to rectify them. Because TSBs aren’t typically safety related, manufacturers are not obligated to notify owners or pay for the repairs, though an automaker may pay for some or all of the work–if an owner asks them to. Lists of TSBs can be found at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/index.cfm. Check for any TSBs that were issued for the model you’re buying and if the seller had any necessary repairs performed.

12. Check the vehicle’s history.

A vehicle-history report from CarFax (www.carfax.com) or Experian Automotive (www.autocheck.com) can alert you to possible odometer fraud; reveal past fire, flood, and accident damage; or tell you if a rebuilt or salvage title has ever been issued for the vehicle. To access this information, provide the vehicle identification number, or “VIN,” which is on the top of the dashboard, near the driver’s side roof pillar. Reports should cost $15 and the process takes about five minutes. (CarFax’s Web site provides Consumer Reports’ advice and information on buying used cars.)

13. Visit a mechanic.

Before you buy a used vehicle, have it inspected by a qualified mechanic that routinely does automotive diagnostic work. A thorough diagnosis should cost around $120. An organization called the Car Care Council (www.carcare.org) certifies diagnostic shops. If you’re an American Automobile Association (AAA) member, you could use one of the organization’s recommended facilities.

In addition to doing the basic diagnostic, ask the mechanic to put the vehicle on a lift and inspect the undercarriage. Kinked structural components and large dents in the floor pan or fuel tank can indicate a past accident. Welding on the frame suggests a damaged section might have been replaced or cut out during repairs. Have the mechanic look for fresh undercoating, which can be used to hide recent structural repairs.

A dealer should have no problem lending you the car to have it inspected as long as you leave identification. A private seller may be more reluctant, however. You should offer to follow the seller to the shop where the inspection will take place.

Know your rights The law can protect you if your carriage turns into a pumpkin.

Part of buying smart is knowing what protection you have before you need it. State laws vary greatly in the degree of consumer protection they afford. New York law, for instance, requires that car dealers offer written warranties on all used vehicles with less than 100,000 miles selling for $1,500 or more. In California, it’s illegal for a dealer to sell a car with unsafe tires, damaged glass, nonfunctioning lights, or ineffective brakes. Other states offer varying amounts of protection. Check with your state attorney general’s office or local consumer-protection agency to learn about the laws in your area. If you’ve bought a lemon From a dealer. The state attorney general’s office can explain how your state laws protect you. If you suspect that you’ve bought a rebuilt wreck, contact the National Association of Consumer Advocates (www.naca.net), which maintains a list of attorneys who specialize in such cases. If you have a problem with a car covered by a warranty or service contract, and the dealership refuses service, you have several options. For service agreements administered by an automaker, contact the company’s local representative. These representatives are authorized to adjust and approve repairs independently of the dealership that sold the car. If you bought the vehicle from a franchised dealer, you may be eligible for mediation through the National Automotive Dealers Association’s Automotive Consumer Action Program (AUTOCAP). For more information, call NADA at 800-252-6232 or visit www.nada.com. If the dealer is willing, consider using a dispute-resolution organization to mediate your disagreement. Some service agreements require this as a first step before suing the dealer or manufacturer. Pay attention to the wording of the sales contract before buying to determine if you may sue, or if you must submit to arbitration. From a private seller. Your options are much more limited. If the seller has made any written guarantees about the condition of the vehicle, you can use them as the basis for filing a lawsuit. You can resolve disputes involving smaller amounts of money (usually less than $2,000) without an attorney through small claims court. The clerk of your local small-claims court can tell you what the exact dollar limit is in your state and provide information on how to file suit.

 

A Bill Talley Ford Guide to Better Gas Mileage and Saving Money at the Pump

Well, it’s that time again. Time to fill the tank up. If you are one of the lucky ones and have already made the switch to a new fuel-efficient model or a hybrid, good for you (and your wallet). But for some of us, it seems like the time to fill the tank again comes far too often. Of course, sometimes there’s just not much you can do to keep your vehicle from guzzling gas like a black hole swallows stars, but more often than not the following tips can help you increase your gas mileage, if even for a minute.

(via the Federal Trade Commission)

One of the most important factors in maintaining a decent gas mileage is by keeping your engine tuned at all times, which has been known to increase fuel-efficiency by four-percent. Another is to keep your tires properly inflated and aligned. And the third most important is to keep your oil changed when ever it is needed. Some oils contain friction-reducing additives that can improve fuel economy.

Check your owners manual for the recommended and most-effective octane level for your vehicle, and check where the cheapest gas prices are in your area.

Gas mileage decreases very quickly at speeds over 60mph, so it is important to maintain the speed limit.

Idling when you are stopped is a waste of fuel and money, and your vehicle may use more fuel when idling than it takes to restart your engine.

Overdrive gears and cruise-control on the highway have been known to improve fuel economy.

Anticipate traffic and road conditions to minimize the need for braking. Letting off the gas around bends can help eliminate that need on familiar roads.

Using the air conditioner can suck gasoline out of your engine a lot faster than when not in use so only use the AC when it is absolutely necessary.

Any unnecessary extra weight in your car can decrease the fuel-efficiency by up to two-percent.

So, there you have it, folks. A few tips courtesy of Bill Talley Ford (and Uncle Sam) to help keep your vehicle’s thirst quenched, and your pennies un-pinched.

But for a real money-saver, stop into Bill Talley Ford and pick up a new, fuel-efficient Ford….(wink)…